Jason and I visited Paris in mid-September and had a great time. The only downfall of the the entire trip was that it rained every.single.day. Every day!
Our favorite aspect of traveling is enjoying all of the food and the rain certainly didn’t put a damper on that.
Without further adieu, here is a rundown of EVERYTHING we ate while in Paris.
We arrived to our apartment in The Marais around 11 am on the first day and our host had beautiful French macarons waiting for us. I don’t know where they were from, but they were some of the best macarons I’ve ever had! And how gorgeous are the colors?
The were the perfect little pick-me-up before heading out to explore.
Right across the street from our apartment was Bar du Marche des Blancs-Manteaux on Rue Vielle du Temple. We didn’t quite have our bearings yet, and we were ready for lunch, so we popped in for a bite. Cafes and bistros are a dime a dozen in Paris. You can find them everywhere.
I had a creamy veggie pasta loaded with mushrooms and Jason had the beef carpaccio and a side of frites.
Jason loved his and he surprisingly loved mine too. I enjoyed the pasta and sauce, but they mushrooms were gritty, as if they hadn’t been cleaned. I did not enjoy that. I didn’t end up eating very much of my dish, but had a few pieces of bread.
For dinner our first night we went to Les Deux Magots. Now this is a very touristy spot right on Place Saint-Germaine-de-Pres. Saint-Germaine is great for people watching, as there is a lot of hustle and bustle. We still weren’t exactly sure where to try for dinner, so we gave it a whirl and sat outside.
We started with the burrata appetizer that came in a corriander jellied water with tomatoes, and a simple salad. This was our first time trying burrata (essentially cream-filled mozzarella) and we LOVED it!
For dinner I ordered the sea bass with seasonal vegetables and Jason and the roasted duck with figs and mashed butternut squash.
My entree was just ok- nothing too special. Jason’s duck was good but his butternut squash was fantastic. I could have licked it off the plate!
I would save Les Deux Magots for just a coffee or glass of wine and watch the world go by. The food is just so-so.
On our way home from dinner we stopped at a random ice cream stand and had a sweet treat. Jason got the speculoos (think Biscoff cookie butter) and it was so good. One of the best things on our trip, for sure.
We took a private food tour with Wendy Lyn of The Paris Kitchen on our first full day in Paris. It was very interesting and Wendy really explained a lot about the food culture and customs in Paris. For instance, in a bakery you get in and get out very quickly. You need to know what you want and be on your way. But in a cheese shop, you take your time and the staff is happy to help you select the perfect cheese.
Wendy took us to her favorite bakery, Eric Kayser, for a morning pastry.
We tried a baguette and some sort of lemon-filled croissant. It’s seasonal and not always available, but if they have it when you go, you MUST try it. So buttery, rich and the perfect blend of sweet and tart.
After touring a cheese shop Wendy took us to one of her favorite wine bars, L’Avant Comptoir Wine Bar for a glass of wine (for Wendy and Jason) and small, shared plates.
This is a new concept in Paris and is not widely popular. We love this kind of eating! We shared the savory waffle topped with a creamy artichoke mixture and proscuitto, as well as foie gras skewers.
Both were good. Jason loved the seared foie gras but it’s too rich for me. One bite was plenty! Wendy insisted that we order the beef tartar, which is finely chopped raw beef and it was served over a creamy eggplant sauce.
This was definitely not our favorite, but very French! The portion was just too big. One can only handle so much raw beef.
Our tour with Wendy ended after lunch, but she highly recommended that we try Frenchie Wine Bar for dinner. She told us that they open at 7:00 and don’t take reservations, so we needed to get there at 6:45 to claim our spot in line.
This was by far Jason’s favorite meal of our visit.
The tables are community style, so you sit with other folks. We had a very friendly American couple next to us who own an apartment in Paris. They were really knowledgeable about our neighborhood and had lots of great suggestions.
Since I couldn’t drink wine I ordered an elderberry juice and was pleasantly surprised. It was a nice compliment to dinner.
Like our lunch restaurant, the menu at Frenchie Wine Bar is made up of small, shareable plates. When we spotted burrata again we knew we had to order it. This was good, but I think I actually preferred the burrata from Les Deux Magots.
We also ordered mussels, squid ink pasta, and roasted pig head dish with a corn cream that was divine.
I’d highly recommend Frenchie to anyone visiting Paris.
Jason made a reservation for David Toutain the following night. I think I can safely say this was the most interesting dining experience we’ve ever had. There is no menu, the chef just sends out course after course after course (something like 18 small courses) of the most unique and intriguing concoctions.
I started with a pear juice that was just about the most delicious thing I’ve ever had. It tasted like drinking a liquid pear. I’m still dreaming of it.
I can’t begin to remember all of the courses we were served, but here is a little peek:
We tried everything from egg yolk and sweet corn foam to squid ink mousse to the tiniest clams you’ve ever seen in a sea water broth. If you are a “foodie” looking for something totally wild, give David Toutain a try. I doubt we’d ever go back, but it was a cool once-in-a-lifetime dining experience.
We slept right through breakfast most days, so lunch was usually our first meal. At the recommendation of many folks, we headed to Chez Janou for lunch.
My body was screaming for fresh, simple veggies, so I started with a spinach salad with a simple vinaigrette and a huge mound of goat cheese on top.
It was delicious but HUGE! I could never finish any meal in Paris which is something the Parisians despise. They find it very wasteful and ask if you didn’t like it. Oh, well. Sorry Parisians! What can I say, I wanted to try some of everything.
My entree was escargot (snails) over a decadent pasta with tarragon cream and crunchy pine nuts.
This was actually quite delicious. I’m always happy to try something new and I loved the snails. Chez Janou feels totally Parisian and is a great, quaint lunch spot. We got there when they first opened and the restaurant very quickly filled up.
Also, get the chocolate mousse! I’m SO SAD we didn’t try it. They bring out a huge bowl of mousse and you just eat as much as you want. I’m pretty sure I’m going to have to go back to Paris just to try it.
We actually headed to London the next day for two whirl-wind days. We LOVED the food in London! Indian food, tapas, and high tea, oh my!
So back in Paris we decided Italian sounded good. I mean, one can only survive on butter and heavy cream for so long, right?
We found a highly-regarded pizza restaurant (sorry we can’t remember the name) and started with the burrata (shocker!). We were seriously on the Burrata tour in Paris.
It was served with fresh tomatoes, arugula, and olive oil. Delicious, but I thought it could have used a heavy dose of basil. The tiny piece on top wasn’t enough for me.
I ordered the prosciutto and arugula pizza and Jason opted for the four cheese. We certainly didn’t need two pizzas, but we couldn’t decide. Both were delicious!
We noticed that nobody eats with their hands in Paris. Everyone uses a fork and knife to cut sandwiches and pizza. We tore pieces off and ate with our hands. Silly Americans. 😉
After dinner we walked back to our neighborhood, the Marais, in search of ice cream. Kevin and Amanda recommend the gelato from Amorino and there just so happened to be one a few blocks from our apartment.
Oh my yum! I had the Nutella and Speculoos (I’d been dying for it since Jason first had it) and it was delicious. Amorino shops can be found all over Paris and I’d definitely recommend popping in for a scoop if you come across one.
On our final day I finally got my paws on a good, Parisian falafel sandwich. Falafel is very popular in Paris and the most famous restaurant, L’as du Fallafel, just so happened to be in our neighborhood.
This place gets crazy busy! People line up down the street to order a falafel pita at the window. We opted to sit down inside. It was far less busy, but they add a few Euros onto the price of each menu item. It was well worth it for my beloved falafel!
My pregnant self was quite happy after this meal.
Our final meal in Paris may have been one of our very best. We followed another suggestion from the couple at Frenchie’s and went to Robert et Louise for steak. The restaurant was less than a block from our apartment.
It’s a teeny tiny place that feels like a cozy den. They grill huge ribeyes on a grill that you can see from your table.
Each steak comes with the most delicious roasted potatoes (probably roasted in duck fat) and a simple salad. Jason and I were both in heaven.
We finished our meal with creme brûlée and it was amazing. I would absolutely go back to Robert et Louise if I ever visit Paris again.
As you can see, The Marais is a great neighborhood to stay in. I don’t believe there are many (if any at all) hotels in the neighborhood, but I’d definitely recommend getting an apartment through Air BNB. We had a great experience!
The Marais is full of shops and restaurants and is lots of fun to walk around. It’s only about a 10-15 minute walk to Notre Dame and beyond. I swear we must have walked 100 miles while in Paris, which helped us build up an appetite for our next meal.
So there you have it, everything we ate in Paris. If you’ve been to Paris, where did you eat? What was your favorite food?